Sunday, May 18, 2014

A Steady Stream of Visitors



Since March, I’ve been playing host to a seemingly constant stream of visitors coming to Vienna from different European countries, and there are still more to come. First, there was Steve; then a friend of mine from home, whom I actually met in Finland, Alex; overlapping with Alex, there was my Finnish friend, Emmi; and a little while later, another friend from Finland, Henri, came. In between, Thomas has also been here and helped host Emmi by acting as a superb tour guide of Vienna. 



Before the arrival of Emmi, way back on Easter Sunday (that’s how busy I’ve been, only being able to catch up on blog writing now!), Thomas and I managed to get hold of a couple of cheap tickets from my landlady (only 12€ each) to see the locally famous Strauss II operetta, Die Fledermaus. I had to ask the difference between an opera and an operetta, this being my first experience of one, and I was told that an operetta serves as a light-hearted and funnier version of opera. We revelled in the opportunity to dress up and feel like part of the elite; me in my purple graduation dress, and Thomas in a sharp suit. Even if I do say so myself, I think we presented ourselves rather well! The operetta itself was entertaining and thoroughly enjoyable; despite the English surtitles provided above the stage, which I found was distracting from the performance itself more than anything, I was able to understand the plot and even most of the jokes in German. That’s progress!



Another great language learning experience was the Frauen Fun Run, held while Emmi was visiting Vienna. I wasn’t feeling particularly well at that time, but thankfully Emmi was there to help and encourage me and, luckily, I was only registered for a 3km run. Unexpectedly, I felt fine during the actual run; it was just before and after that wasn’t so great. Nevertheless, I’m glad I did it; it was at least worth it for the freebies from the sponsors, like Kellogg’s and Nivea. 


At one point, in that same week, I found myself enjoying a Hugo spritzer in the sunshine with three girls visiting Vienna! Emmi’s and Alex’s trips conveniently overlapped, while Laura, another Finn who happened to be the previous Comenius Assistant last year in the same school I work in, came back to revisit and relive her time in Vienna. We took advantage of the weather (despite the unsettled “April weather” forecast , it stayed fine) by sitting out on the terrace at the Hundertwasserhaus and walking along the Donau canal. 



The next stop was Klagenfurt for the weekend! We headed by train to the southern part of Austria, close to the Italian border, with my two tandems. Four of us girls, Emmi, Alex, Bartle (my fellow Comenius friend, Laura) and I, shared a four-person Junior Suite in supposedly the best hotel in Klagenfurt, which somehow happened to be the cheapest option for us! I was completely sold by the possibility to have a bath! It’s funny how much more I appreciate the chance to take a nice, relaxing, hot bath after living for so long without one. 


 Klagenfurt itself is a small city, though the sixth largest in Austria, with its main attraction being the nearby lake, Wörthersee. The town itself is quaint and charming with a friendly, amiable atmosphere that oozes summer holiday appeal. We found ourselves chilling out by the lake; visiting Minimundus that consists of mini models of famous landmarks from around the world; dancing and rapping next to the mini- Eiffel Tower (for the purpose of a music video); searching for peacocks where none existed in the Europa nature park; and treating ourselves to a steak dinner. 


After indulging in the delicious dinner, our attention was distracted by a group of ladies out for a hen party. I had seen hen parties in Vienna and wondered what the tradition is, because, from what I’d seen, they go around with a box of random things to sell and I was under the impression that they mostly target men. Emmi’s friend, whom Emmi first met on Erasmus in Belfast and who is now living in Klagenfurt, could explain to us as a native Austrian how it works. In fact, we learned through experience as she decided to purchase a few shot-size bottles of ‘kleiner Klopfer’ from the hen-party stash. It turns out there is a special custom to how to drink those. First, you unscrew the cap from the mini-bottle, then lightly squeeze the cap onto the tip of your nose, while chanting ‘zum, zum, zum, ZUM’ louder and louder with the others drinking with you, and finally down it straight from the bottle. It was certainly an interesting, authentic, drinking tradition to experience!



Emmi’s friend also kindly offered to drive us to a specially-constructed viewing point, about 20 minutes outside of the main town. It was a viewing tower, to be exact, that had only been recently reconstructed in 2013 to include an ‘emergency’ slide. I say that, but after climbing upwards of 322 steps up (or taking the lazy option of the lift!), there is the possibility to pay an extra 4€ to take the slide down! Since this was truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience, all of us chose to pay for the added extra. I proudly climbed the steps to the top in record speed, to be rewarded with a magnificent view over the lake and surrounding towns and villages. Moreover, we happened to be there during some drama, as a continuous stream of classic cars drove up the mountain to join some kind of classic car club meeting at the foot of the tower. Engine trouble and a fire brigade were also involved! Nevertheless, the real thrill came from the slide ride down which turned out to be A LOT fast than I had predicted and was prepared for! Completely worth it though. 
 

Back in Vienna, I had plenty to be getting on with and was glad for a day’s break over May Day. Usually, Thomas and I have celebrated the Finnish tradition of Vappu over May Day, but this was the first time in 4 years that we haven’t spent it in Finland, nor together. Thomas unfortunately had an obligatory military week to serve, while I sunned myself in 21˚C heat with a sushi picnic in the city. It’s a hard life for some, really!


In all seriousness, though, between working in two schools, tutoring and taking German classes, I’ve had work piling up and up with a never-ending to-do list. In the private school, I had my first insight into one of the many big events that the school hosts – the Mother’s Day breakfast. Mother’s Day is celebrated in May in most other countries besides home; we seem to be the odd ones, having it in March. For the Mother’s Day event, 72 mums were invited to enjoy a special Mother’s Day breakfast and performances by their children. Thankfully, it all ran rather smoothly and I was impressed by how the children and my colleagues pulled off such an event that requires a lot of hard work and organisation. 


Feeling exhausted after a particularly busy week, I still managed to find some energy from somewhere to host another Finnish friend of mine. Henri came to visit Vienna and we fulfilled a packed itinerary full of activities I had wanted to try since I arrived in Vienna, but had not yet had a chance to experience. Although, I couldn’t resist also sharing some of my favourite things about Vienna too! Our first destination of choice was Kahlenberg, which, in my opinion, offers the best view over Vienna (and it’s free!) We took the bus up the mountain, admired the view and began our descent with a leisurely stroll through the vineyards. On the way down, we accidently discovered a summer winery that had just opened that very day. We happened to be the very first customers to enjoy the local tasty snack board, cake and wine on a stunningly beautiful and warm day. 


Henri came at a suitable time to catch some one-off events in the Austrian capital. On the Friday evening, we attended a free, televised classical concert in front of the stunning town hall for the opening of the Rathaus Festwochen, namely, ‘Europa singt’ = Europe sings, a five week program full of events and performances from 22 different countries, all held in Vienna. The event was really something spectacular with amazing performances from the symphony orchestra of Vienna and amazingly talented choirs from all over Europe, including from Finland, Lithuania and Croatia. I was also impressed by the lighting production that illuminated the Rathaus in different colours during the evening’s program. That was definitely something not to be missed, even though the rain couldn’t resist an entrance (we appreciated the free rain ponchos handed out at the beginning from the sponsors!) 


The next day, we arranged to meet with the other Comenius folk for brunch in Himmelblau, a quirky, wee café in the same district that I live in, the 18th district. Being the same district where I also work, we bumped into several kids whom I teach. This became quite a common occurrence! After a yummy brunch, we hired some city bikes (it’s possible to use them for free for an hour) and cycled to the Donauinsel, a long, thin island that stretches down the centre of the Danube river. It’s a beautiful, natural area, great to cycle or walk along and enjoy a sunny day’s picnic or swimming session in the river (like Thomas and I did, last summer.) 


After that, Henri, Scott and I went to check out the Genuss Festival being held at the Stadtpark (city park) nearby. The festival had almost 100 stalls offering free samples or selling delicious locally produced food and wines. We tried a lot of amazing free food, made freshly in front of us or that we could be involved in making. Later, after having been rightfully tempted by the scents and aesthetics of the food, we couldn’t resist having, what constituted as, dinner there. The food was simply delicious and nicely washed down with a Hugo rosé spritzer, a version of the drink that I’d never tried before. 


Making the most of the weekend, we also took advantage of the one-night only chance of free entry to the museums in the Museums Quartier (MQ) of the city. This was the perfect opportunity for me to see these museums, which has been a mission of mine since I moved to Vienna. We took in the Leopold Museum that held an interesting exhibition of modern interpretations of World War I, as well as the MUMOK museum, which is the Museum of Modern Art (Museum, MU, Modern, MO, Kunst, K – ‘art’ in German.) That, to be quite honest, displayed some very strange works of art that most of us failed to understand. Nevertheless, worth a visit, or at least for free!



The Sunday of Henri’s visit was forecast to be a very rainy day, and that it was. Despite the weather, we ploughed on with our plan and began our day by visiting the Butterfly House. Henri shared his fascination of the metamorphosis that takes place in the cocoon, from caterpillar to butterfly. Having never been to a butterfly farm before, I was a bit wary that I might not like it as the idea of butterflies flying all around me reminds me of unpleasant, close encounters I’ve had with pigeons flying very close to me. However, it turned out to be an insightful and interesting experience with, what I must admit, are fascinating creatures.


Next on our itinerary was the Apple Strudel Show at the Palace of Schönbrunn. We made it just in time for the beginning of the 2pm show (they hold them every hour, on the hour, in German and English.) The lady chef flawlessly demonstrated their homemade recipe, impressively using the entire length of her forearm to thin out the pastry. Included in the cost was a complimentary slice of strudel and a copy of the recipe to try at home, though I’m not sure if I would be able to repeat her handling of the pastry! Luckily, they have a strudel hotline which connects directly to the strudel kitchen, where there is always someone to answer any strudel-related queries.


The last major target during our busy weekend was the Museum of Technology. This is a huge museum consisting of many floors spanning many topical exhibitions which include interactive activities. We succeeded in exploring most of the museum, with my favourite two exhibitions being on everyday life and space. There was a considerate area of tranquillity created where you could lie down on amazingly comfortable recliners and stare up into ‘space’ while listening to soothing music. Pure bliss. And perfect for parents there with young families to enjoy a few minutes of rare relaxation. 




Over the course of Henri’s visit to Vienna, two particularly topical issues arose – the Eurovision Song Contest, and the European Elections. During our bus journey up to Kahlenberg, we bumped into a girl I teach who happens to be from the Ukraine. She was on her way home from school and had picked up a copy of the free city newspaper (which is of very poor quality, by the way.) On the front cover, spread across the top, was Austria’s entry in the Eurovision Song Contest - Conchita Wurst, the alter ego of Tom Neuwirth. The pupil I teach commented on the picture on the front page of the newspaper, asking, “What is that? A man or a woman?” Her honest and perceptive outlook was engaging and made our journey a lot shorter! It led to a discussion about Eurovision because, in fact, she had no idea what it is and we had to explain about it being a song contest. Somehow, this understandably led to the involvement of politics – particularly interesting considering the reactions of the Eurovision audiences to the entries from the Ukraine and Russia, given the current, delicate circumstances. Our bus journey continued with a heavy monologue from an eavesdropping Polish man, who offered his interesting views on the corruptive politics of Poland. Quite an eventful ride, needless-to-say!


The European elections has become a topic of interest for me, following a public debate I viewed via live streaming online from the UTU Debating Club, of which I used to be a board member and regular attendant. I personally don’t have much interest in politics, despite the fact that I probably should, but I feel that the hypocrisy and preoccupied politics of Northern Ireland can justify my stance. However, I must admit that the EU has shaped my life for the better during the past 5 years and I have the strong urge to contribute something now that I have a chance to.

Without the EU, I probably would never have lived for some time in Finland, Lithuania, Hungary or Austria, where I’ve experienced some of the best years of my life, particularly in Finland, which has left lasting happy memories.


In the spirit of reminiscing over Finland, I used my initiative to become involved in the most recent Restaurant Day, a concept that originated in Finland only in 2011 but has become something of an international sensation. It occurs quarterly throughout the year, when anyone and everyone can set up their own pop-up restaurant anywhere for the day. So, all of us on the Comenius project in Vienna pitched in to create a Comenius Café, based on the idea that for one day only, people can come an experience afternoon tea, British style instead of the Viennese way. Although it wasn’t quite as successful as we would have hoped for, probably because the concept is still very new and unheard of in Austria, it was fun all the same! 



I relived some childhood memories by making fifteens and snowballs – which turned out to be quite a challenge because sweetened condensed milk, the vital ingredient in both of these recipes, doesn’t seem to exist in Austria. I asked after searching in three supermarkets and the shop assistant led me to all they had to offer, which was a glass bottle of plain condensed milk, situated in the tea and coffee section. It looked like it would do the job but I later realized it wasn’t sweet nor thick enough to hold my traybakes together. Thank goodness a fellow Comenius friend, Steffi, came to the rescue with an idea to thicken the milk after I had sweetened it with butter and sugar. The recipes were salvaged and they turned out scrumptious in the end!


After a very busy month, there are still many things coming up in the next 3 weeks: the Austrian Women’s Run; a visit from Thomas, when we will try to sort out an apartment to move in to from August; an overnight trip with the 4th graders from my Comenius school; and a much anticipated visit from my crazy cousin, Jenny. Bring it on!

Sunday, May 4, 2014

Springtime in Serbia, at home and my home away from home



My intention was to write two separate blog posts about the happenings of the past several weeks, but the time has flown in so fast, and April disappeared before I knew it! So instead, I’ll divide this post up into the two dominating features to have recently occurred:  
1. A quick trip home to celebrate my Granny’s 85th birthday, and 2. An amazing adventure in sunny (and not so sunny) Serbia!
 

1.       To home and back, just about!


Since I moved to Vienna back in September, knowing I would be here for the whole school year, I already started to look ahead because I had anticipated 2014 to be a year of big celebrations. On the top of my priority list was my Granny’s 85th birthday, which fell on the 1st April 2014, and this struck me as specially important because it is somewhat of a tradition for our family to gather every 5th year for this occasion; we have done so for Granny’s 70th, 75th and 80th, so of course, we couldn’t leave out this one! Not to mention that Granny is undoubtedly my biggest blog fan and subjects any visitor who passes through her door to the latest hardcopy blog post. 


I was hoping that this particular date might conveniently fall over the Easter holiday period but luck wouldn’t have it. As the 1st happened to be on a Tuesday, that didn’t work out as a particularly convenient day for most, so thankfully, the birthday bash was planned for the previous Friday evening instead. My plan was to fly in late on the Thursday night, spend a long weekend at home and catch an early flight the following Tuesday. 


Last year alone, I flew more than 20 times within Europe and have been incredibly lucky not to encounter any problems besides a minor delay. This time was the first time I was presented with what could potentially ruin my whole plan to travel home that weekend. Lufthansa, the German airline which I’d heard a lot of positive things about and I had booked flights with for the first time, had pilots going on the biggest strike the company has seen in recent decades. 


I initially heard about the strike on the radio during the news bulletin on a local Austrian radio station, while Steve and I were driving towards Schneeberg (the tiny village instead of the mountain). I had hoped that I simply misinterpreted it as I’m still what I consider in the early stages of learning German. However, a couple of days later, Lufthansa sent a courtesy e-mail warning of the strike to come and the potential of thousands of flights being cancelled, with the one-time opportunity to rebook flights for free within 24 hours of receiving the e-mail. I deliberated this option rather thoroughly but figured in the end that, even if I did rebook my flights, there was no guarantee that they wouldn’t be cancelled either. 


I kept tabs on the strike action and witnessed on the website hundreds of flights labelled as ‘cancelled’ for the same day I was due to fly. Thankfully, somehow I narrowly avoided any problems with mine and was luckily unaffected. Despite the potential strike stress, I enjoyed my flights with Lufthansa and particularly appreciated the inclusions in the price, namely included check-in luggage up to 23kg, as well as food and drink on the plane (once including hot food and an alcoholic beverage of choice!) Nevertheless, I was happy with the prospect of travelling by train in the coming months. 



 
All in all, Granny’s birthday bash was a success and a great opportunity to catch up with family whom I haven’t seen in far too long! It was my first trip home that I dedicated entirely to quality time with my family and now I feel like I should do that more often. We had a beautiful meal together in the Halfway House and my mum pulled off her best pavlova yet. It was huge and absolutely to-die-for! Despite a few mishaps during the making of it, everyone was impressed by the delicious dessert, even the restaurant managers, who were ready to sell it by the slice!

My older brother, Ryan, and I even went on a run together to the local park and availed of the outdoor gym facilities. He is preparing to run his first marathon in Edinburgh next month in aid of Prostate Cancer UK and in memory of our late Uncle Laurence. On the same day, I will run a mere 5km in the Austrian Women’s Run but I will be thinking of Ryan attempting the full marathon – that’ll be an achievement!


While feeling spontaneous at home, I popped into a local hairdresser on the off-chance that they may have time to cut my hair. Without really thinking much about it, I asked for a complete re-style that would give me a whole new look with short hair. I used a picture of Anne Hathaway, as I had been likened to her by some complimentary strangers, to explain how short I meant. It was better not to have an appointment or too much time to think about it; otherwise I wouldn’t have done it at all. I’ve always wanted to have my hair really short but never quite had the guts, even though I’d been told before that I would suit a pixie cut. Now I’ve done it, I’ve instead been likened to Miley Cyrus and have divided opinions between those who think it’s great and suits me well, and those who politely say, “Well, it’ll grow back,” meaning it’s not their cup of tea. I’m still getting some shock reactions, many weeks later, from people who haven’t seen it yet and don’t recognise me! That’s when you know you’ve had a good haircut. 


2.       Sunny times in Serbia, via Budapest!


During the Easter break, Thomas and I planned a trip to Serbia – somewhere within reach by train from Vienna and a place I set in my sights since moving to central Europe. We had a rough
itinerary in place: travel by train to Budapest (3 hours); spend a couple of hours in the Hungarian capital; take the train from Budapest to Novi Sad (6 hours); spend 3 nights with a friend I studied with in Finland, Nikola; catch a train from Novi Sad to the Serbian capital of Belgrade (1 ½ hours) and spend 2 nights there; then travel back to Vienna again by train via Budapest (total: 14 hours).

I was excited to return to Budapest again, despite having been there just a couple of weeks prior to this trip! Firstly, it is a fantastic city that I could easily spend more time in, and secondly, the new metro line had just been opened one week previously. I was curious to see the new metro (underground) line, as I had already seen pictures online and it looked so futuristic and well-designed. In reality, even though we didn’t manage to see more than two or three stations, it doesn’t disappoint. The use of natural light is a very clever part of the design that makes the underground station feel a lot less dark and claustrophobic, with a much better circulation of air than I’ve experienced before. It’s a job well done, in my opinion, and I think I wasn’t the only one to be impressed!


Novi Sad


After a while, it was time for us to board the next train to Novi Sad for which Thomas had made reservations. The train was coming from Russia and terminating in Belgrade, and appeared to be made up of mismatching puzzle pieces. Every carriage was from a different country and was completely different to the one next to it. We were lucky to have a comfortable and modern Czech wagon for the duration of the journey. Although, despite being the newest part of the train, the toilets didn’t work and the conductor had serious problems trying to close the exit door while travelling at a speed upwards of 50km/h. We ventured down to the older sections of the train to use the functioning facilities there instead.


Boarding the train at the same time as us was a Serbian man, we guessed, carrying a tiny, worn, old school suitcase that wasn’t fully closed, and only stayed in one piece thanks to two straps buckled in at either side of it. This man, whom we later named ‘the vodka guy’, whistled, sang and talked to himself from the first moment we saw him on the train platform. He said something to us that we couldn’t comprehend and Thomas predicted that he didn’t have a ticket. He was right. The guy ended up paying double and forking out twice, first in Hungary, then later in Serbia. 


The vodka association came when I went on a mission to the restaurant section of the train for coffee. Our favourite guy was there ordering some alcohol for himself, while the man behind the counter desperately tried to understand what he wanted. Eventually, he ended up handing over his own empty quarter bottle, which the waiter filled with Finlandia vodka, then the, probably already drunk, customer ordered a further two beers, and paid 7€ for the lot. From what I know, at home you would never be allowed to fill somebody’s personal bottle with liquor as you’re limited to sell by the glass. There, it seemed the rules differed, but the vodka of choice was at least a decent one (of course, my biased self would say that anywhere Finland is mentioned!) Maybe the vodka guy just thought it was ridiculous that coffee (1,60€) cost more than beer (1,50€). 


I’d say our favourite passenger was an interesting one for the passport control authorities, who spent an hour checking everyone twice, once on the Hungarian/EU/Schengen border and again on the Serbian border. It was easy to tell when we had crossed the Serbian border, as I had my passport stamped and the train journey became a lot slower. The remainder of the journey, which should have taken half the time, was about 100km (~62 miles) and lasted 3 hours. Nevertheless, it was worth it for our welcome to Novi Sad.


Upon arrival, my friend and classmate from my Master studies in Finland met us by car and helped us settle in to his apartment, our accommodation for the next 3 nights. He kindly gave up his apartment for us for the duration of our stay while he stayed with his family. We enjoyed a warm, traditional welcome from Nikola’s parents, beginning with a standard shot of Rakia – very similar to the fruit brandy, Pálinka, of Hungary. You can feel it burn your oesophagus as it eases down your throat and detoxes your insides. A refreshing way to start our Serbian adventure!


Despite a long day travelling, we were up for checking out the local nightlife of Novi Sad since Friday night is the most buzzing night of the week. The city centre was literally just across the road from Nikola’s apartment so within minutes we found ourselves on the ‘party street’ of the city. It is a very narrow street, crowded with people walking through it or sitting outside enjoying an outdoor drink from one of the many bars with tables and chairs spilling out onto the street. We blended in with the crowd, while also relaxing with a drink and availing of the optimum opportunity to people-watch. The way girls dressed up to go out reminded me a lot of back home in Belfast  - that is to say, they didn’t leave much to the imagination! Later, we ended up in a straight-edge bar, where one of Nikola’s friends works, that happened to be the only non-smoking bar in Novi Sad. It was a very chilled out, alternative place that resembled a quirky living room that had simply been converted into a cosy bar. It certainly got our approval!


The next day, we were treated to an amazing, home-cooked Sunday lunch, thanks to Nikola’s mum. It consisted of meat, meat and more meat! The Serbian eating and drinking culture doesn’t seem to differ too much from Hungary, so judging on that I believe that the portions are huge and you eat until you’re about to burst! The food was delicious – tasty, chicken broth soup to start; huge meat (chicken & pork) casserole with pickled paprika and salad for the main; and to finish, a rich, rum and chocolate roulade dessert. And of course, before starting to eat, the tradition is to settle your stomach with a shot of Unicum first – a bitter, herbal liqueur that may be mistaken as medicine. 


After a very filling lunch and some time to digest, we headed out for a cycle along the Danube river. Among the sights were ruins from the 1999 NATO bombing of Yugoslavia, as well as the contrasting well-designed cycle lanes and outdoor facilities, such as a manmade beach, gym, running track and many more sport options. I was impressed by how active people seemed to be there, but also surprised by the constant reminders of the bombardment left sitting for 15 years. I can imagine if Serbia becomes an EU member state at some point in the future, the place will be covered with EU-funding placards, much like how I remember Lithuania to be. 


The main tourist attraction of Novi Sad is the magnificent, well-preserved fortress, where you can walk around and take in the stunning 360˚ view of the city, overlooking the river Danube. It spans over a large area, hosts a huge music festival every summer, and its walls continue into the old town, a UNESCO world heritage sight; another interesting place to people-watch, or rather, to be watched – the locals who live there tend to hang out their windows and simply watch the world go by. Hungry from the sightseeing, we went to eat pljeskavica, the traditional Serbian burger which I can only describe as a large patty of meat served to us in thick pita bread. If that doesn’t fill you up, I don’t know what would!


Our Serbian adventure in Novi Sad was taken over by a delightful spontaneity. We were lucky to encounter completely spontaneous happenings that turned out to be the best way to spend our time there! On the Saturday evening, we found ourselves at another alternative location where free vegan food was offered and a sca/alternative rock band from Belgium played, combining many genres of music in one. Because we were already there early, before the band even showed up, we managed to evade the entrance fee. However, since the band was so incredibly entertaining – there were at least 7 of them, playing many instruments and involving the audience in their performance, e.g. with a conga line lead by the trumpet players (we even stepped outside for a second but one of the trumpet players quickly summoned us back in while he still played!) – I bought two of their CDs. 



The following evening, Thomas had the random idea to shoot some hoops before the sun set so we grabbed a basketball and set off to the old court where Nikola used to play as a teenager. We burned off some of that filling food we’d been gorging on and made our way back to the apartment, planning on a chilled evening in and an early night. Instead, we spontaneously stumbled upon an event that we happened to notice on the way past the local synagogue. Turns out, we were just in time to catch an evening of classical music and opera singing performed by the students of the music academy, completely free of charge. We had a magnificent evening enjoying specular performances from incredibly talented piano, violin, viola, clarinet and saxophone players, as well as my personal favourite feature of the evening, an entertaining opera singing duo. 


It just goes to show that sometimes planning a whole itinerary is much less exciting than being open to spontaneity and relishing what a place has to offer. Our time in Novi Sad could be likened to a relaxing summer holiday city break, with gorgeous, warm weather the whole time and opportunities to simply sit and sip a cocktail or eat an ice cream and watch the world go by.
 

Belgrade


Although we weren’t as lucky with the weather in Belgrade, we still found plenty to keep us occupied. Another Serbian friend of mine, whom I’d met in Finland, had kindly written us a list of things to see and do in Belgrade. On our first evening there, we managed to catch the last of the good weather and appreciate the amazing view over Belgrade just before the sun went down at the Kalemagdan fortress. This fortress was just as impressive as the one in Novi Sad, spanning over a large area and surrounded by a beautiful park. 


Thomas had found us a stunning, central apartment to stay in so we were within walking distance of the city centre and the hustle and bustle of everyday life in Serbia’s capital. At this stage, we were just getting to grips with the Serbian dinar currency, which can make you feel deceivingly rich as even tiny amounts are given in notes, rather than coins. Despite the great location, we still wanted to see some sights that were not within walking distance but required either transport by bike (which we didn’t fancy in the pouring rain) or by bus. Although the traffic was not as chaotic as in some cities we’ve seen before, such as St Petersburg or Thessaloniki, it was still quite an adventure to travel by bus in Belgrade and, of course, we managed to get ourselves lost. Being the kind of travellers we are, we took it as all part of the adventure and went about our problem-solving task of figuring out where we were, how to get to where we wanted to go, and how the payment for transportation works. All of that is rather complicated in Belgrade but we managed it and off we went!



Our bus journeys took us to the ‘House of Flowers’ which happens to also be Tito’s Mausoleum, as well as the Museum of Yugoslav History. Despite the negative association that many people might have connected to Tito’s name as the leader of Yugoslavia, his mausoleum depicts him as a significant and well-thought-of individual in history, with a legacy that still lives on. It was a rather strange place with a room full of batons next to it, from the traditional relay race held for Tito’s birthday. He had specifically wished to be buried in the House of Flowers and it was only until recently that it was closed to the public and constantly manned by military guards. It was a rainy day while we were there and not many people had ventured out to see it, so the whole atmosphere seemed a bit eerie to me. Though judging by the walking lanes and arrows marked on the ground, they expect masses of visitors through the gates every year.


Moving on from the Mausoleum, we took another bus to a part of the city that we had heard a lot about – Zemun. It used to be a separate town from Belgrade and you can sense why when you absorb the quaint charm of the small area harboured next to the Danube. We tried to simply enjoy walking around it but the weather beat us into submission and we settled for sitting inside. Later though, we braved the rain again to admire the huge Temple Saint Sava and the cute little popcorn stands that you find everywhere along the streets of Belgrade.


In the evening, we ventured out in search of food along the adorable, cobblestoned streets of Skadarlija – a pedestrianized old town part of the city that I’m sure would be oozing charm in the summer. There were many lovely restaurants to choose from and we chose one where we were also serenaded with traditional Serbian folk music. What was difficult to cope with was the smoking inside the restaurant. This is something I will never get used to and it completely affects my choice of restaurant or bar. Despite this downside and the miserable weather, we still succeeded in making the most of our time in Serbia.


Upon leaving the country the next day, embarking upon our 14 hour train journey, I expected my passport to be stamped again to mark my exit from the country. I have entry and exit stamps from visiting Russia and naturally assumed the same from Serbia. However, no stamp was given so I guess either it’s not necessary, or, according to my passport, I should still be in Serbia and I’m like some kind of European fugitive! Nevertheless, we had an amazing time there and would recommend it to anyone.